The Grafton Inn

Scott Allan greets lunch guests at the Grafton Inn. K.A. ESPOSITO

Region - The pleasure of a meal at the Grafton Inn always begins for me when I walk into the foyer, a warm room furnished with classic furniture, old photographs in frames on the walls and someone smiling to welcome me.

Another pleasure is introducing someone to the restaurant, and on a recent winter afternoon, I brought an out-of-town friend who hadn't been there since Kate and Larry Loughan reopened it two years ago.

The Loughans and their staff changed the century-old inn from a family restaurant and tavern to a first-class casual, country fine-dining restaurant and event facility. A Grafton native, Kate had grown up going to the inn with her family. When she returned, she had years of restaurant experience from across the country, including owning a restaurant in Nevada.

That experience shows in the elegant yet comfortable décor, in the menu and in the experienced staff . We took our time with the menu, but our server, who was also the host and bartender, left us plenty of time to decide yet was attentive and funny, answering our questions and promptly serving our hot tea and coff ee ($2 each).

We stuck to a classic for our appetizer: pastry-wrapped baked Brie ($8.95). But at the Grafton Inn, even a classic is special. Our serving was more than enough for two; that didn't stop us from finishing it off . Served with apple slices and crostini and wearing a light pastry wrap, the warm, creamy cheese was too good to leave on the plate.

My friend chose her main course almost immediately, although she did examine everything on the menu. She stuck with a favorite, beef bourguignon ($9.95). The substantial bowl came to the table steaming with rich wine gravy and piled with chunks of beef that fell apart with the touch of her fork.

The thick gravy, studded with sliced carrots and garnished with fresh, wilted spinach, hid a hearty serving of smooth mashed potatoes that made the dish a perfect comfort meal. She pronounced it excellent.

I decided on the seafood stew ($12.95), which our server said was one of the more popular menu items. I can see why. The steaming broth was filled with shrimp, scallops, mussels in their shells, and a thick piece of perfectly cooked salmon. The garlic-saff ron broth had a hint of lemon that complemented the seafood. I used the accompanying garlic bruschetta to mop up as much of the delicate broth as possible.

As a food writer, I always feel compelled to sample the dessert menu - that's my excuse, anyway. It was no sacrifice! My friend and I shared the lemon souffle d custar d ($4.95).

The cup of chiff on cake and lemon custard was topped with a sweet strawberry sauce. The chilled custard was rich, the delicate cake a perfect companion. Although we had eaten a substantial lunch, we finished that off , as well. Again, it was so delicious, leaving a crumb felt like a crime.

The Grafton Inn at 25 Grafton Common is open for lunch and dinner. For more information, call 508-839-5931 or visit www.thegraftoninn.com. The restaurant is open 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.